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Gabor,

I think the function you want has been in place for quite a while, actually. If you click on an image to see the large version, you can find next- and previous-links above the image to the right. This will take you through the images of the article one at a time - including the tying sequence.

Try it and see if this is what you wanted.

Martin

Ken,

The Teeny-type lines are usually vastly overweighted for the rods. I sometimes use a 700 grains line on my 9-weight pike rod. To call it casting when I use it is exaggerating a bit. It's more like catapulting... But with gentle casting motions it's possible, and man, it does get down to the fish!

Once you tread into the world of these lines, the usual "recommended casting weight" rules seem to cease existing, and other rules such as "get down fast!" come in play.

Don't worry too much about the weight in grains of the T-lines, but use what's recommended - and be prepared for a new casting experience.

Martin

Submitted by Gabor Kutas 17… on

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Just an idea, Martin.
As recently you have provided the articles on fly patterns with detailed enlargeable photos of the tying steps, it would be nice to have an additional button that enables readers on the page of the magnified image to directly navigate to the next tying step instead of first clicking back to the article. Folks with poor bandwidth would appreciate it, too. Anyway, I assure you I remain your reader even if no change is done. ;)

Submitted by Ken on

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Martin,
Thanks for your reply. I have never casted a full sinking line before. I plan to use the Rio T-14(tungsten) line and make a shooting head. For the floater, I will by a cheap 12wt tapered or double tapered. I fully understand there will be casting differences between the sinking line and the floater. My confusion lies in the fact that theoretically, 280 grains loads a 10wt(AFTMA) and everything I have read states that 350-400 grain sinking line will also work for a 10wt. I don't get it.
Thanks,
Ken

Dave,

Welcome to the GFF Forum. Not the busiest out there, but nice, helpful and friendly!

Martin

Submitted by Andreas on

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Fladen is know for the bad quality on all of the stuff they sell, but those flyes cost approximately 4 Euros here in Sweden, but regardless of the price i can't recommend anything from Fladen. Believe me, I worked at a place that sold Fladen and nothing worked as i should. needless to say that we didn't sell much :D

Submitted by Andreas on

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Fladen is know for the bad quality. I have sold fladens lures and rods on my previous work and i can't believe how bad the quality is, sure they are cheap and all but i think that they should try to work on the quality.

Sorry if my english sucks :P

Hello guys .Im going to Bornholm on march. I`m beginner with fly fishing. Could you give mi some fly suggestions for bornholm in this part of year/

[quote:886bc01a91="Giedrius Z"]does anybody knows is the Jan Grünwald book "Hav¸rred – spin og flue i saltvand" translated into English?[/quote:886bc01a91]

Giedrius,

I'm afraid it's not. I think it's available in Norwegian, but thst won't help you much. German maybe...? Don't know. But English, no.

Martin

Sean,

The grip is generally considered safe for the fish as long as you don't lift the fish in the grip and jaw - and even then the fish seem to suffer little harm. Consider the tens of thousands of bass, which are presented by holding their jaw only (no grip needed, they have no teeth), and still seems to survive the US bass competitions.

No, I generally consider the grip a safe way to handle fish for both fish and angler. It has a good, strong hold and saves you fingers from the critter's teeth.

But you can of course also manage with your hands alone, as described here.

Martin

[quote:dcdfb11693="Penguin"]Apologies if the direct link is not acceptable...[/quote:dcdfb11693]

No problem with the link. Excellent little slide show, which shows nicely what the dual tube is.

Thanks

Martin

Submitted by Sean Goulding on

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Whats the story with the vice grips in the poor pikes mouth ?

Submitted by Jim on

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Picric acid is safe in alcohol. If the dyed skin is washed in cold water to remove trace acid it is safe to come in contact with metal.

Dik,

The badger feather in the B/W fly can be replaced with any white, black or grizzly feather without disturbing the impression much. It will be a slightly different fly, but not drastically. You can also consider changing the color altogether as mentioned in the article. Most colors will do fine. Start out picking a hackle color that you have and like, and choose a body color to suit.

Martin

Ken,

Once you step into the realm of Teeny (or Rio) sinking lines, you are in a different world. The heads on these lines are typically much heavier than their "normal" counterparts and 3-400 grains or even 700 grains is way beyond what you would use for a floating or even intermediate line on any rod.

If you have used a T-line, you have probably noticed that the casting style you need to use is much different from the casting style you employ when casting your average line. The T-lines are simply much heavier for the simple reason that they are built to sink like rocks (almost),

When making fast sinking heads I have always used some type of very dense line - like the Scientific Angler Deep Water Express or Lead Core. You could of course also cut a Teeny or Rio line, but it would hurt my heart to trim off the shooting part of these lines. The ones I have used have been full lines with sinking heads and have worked fine as such. But if you want a system, where you can exchange the head, you need to cut and add loops of course.

For the floating head you just follow the recipe in the article and either weigh or try your way to a 30' head in the right weight. This will cast line any line or shooting head, while the sinking head still will cast more like a yo-yo or a bunch of keys tied to a normal fly line. this doesn't matter much since the idea is to get down, not to present the fly nicely.

Hope this helps you.

Martin

Submitted by dik on

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Do you have any opinion on what would be a good substitute for the badger? I love the fly!

Submitted by Ken on

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Mr. Joergensen,
I have read your excellent article concerning shooting heads, but I am still somewhat confused, (not very difficult for me).
I would like to make both a sinking and floating head system. My current saltwater rod is a St. Croix Legend Ultra, 10 wt., 9 feet long. I will most likely use the sinking head system off my 18 foot center console here on Long Island Sound(Connecticut/Rhode Island), but will also use it wading.
I was considering using Rio T-14 line for the sinking head. Here's where I am confused. From what I have read, my understanding is that I could use a 350-400 grain line for this rod. That would be anywhere from 25 feet to 28 feet of T-14. Yet, the AFTMA rating for a 10 wt. is 280 grains, +/- 10 grains.
Now if I were to build a floating head, the ideal length would be up to 30 feet for ease of casting. My confusion/question is, Do I go to 280 grains, or the 350-400 grains? How can 350-400 be ok if the rod is properly loaded at 280 grains? If I try to go to the 350-400 for the floater, the head would be very long, even overlining by two to three line weights.
I did learn in your article that practice casting is really the only way to accurately measure the length of the head. But I am still confused on how that rod can cast 350-400 grains for a sinking head when 280 grains loads the rod properly.

Sorry for being long winded here. I hope I have accurately expressed my confusion.
Thanks in advance for your response.

Submitted by Ron 1737246382 on

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My buddy tied his first fly after consuming multiple beers in Alaska. A fugly orange wooly bugger bead chain eyed knot of fur and tinsel. He casted the fly one time and landed a 5 lb char. The fly now is inside the frame of a large fishing print with a brass plate inscribed: "One cast, one catch!" Spoken like a true Marine who used to go ugly early.

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