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Martin, regarding Robert's post. I think he's confused about your statement regarding the first full moon in April bringing out the worms.

The joys of multi-national participation on a web site. ;-)

Submitted by robert wheeler on

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i wish i could go fishing with some one but i just don't have anybody to take me because it takes up alot of gas milage.

You would not want to use fluorocarbon on dry flies I would not think. It is especially good to use fluorocarbon in the summer, when you want your flies to sink a little lower. Sometimes I just buy a roll of fluorocarbon, and cut off what I need. (conventional fishing rolls) You can pull off a few feet, roll it up, and stick in into a plastic zip lock bag, and then stick in your vest. That way is much cheaper than buying the regular fly fishing tippet.

Submitted by Jamie Hatt on

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toilet rings are now made from a petroleum wax as opposed to beeswax (10yrs ago). Is this recipe assuming beeswax, or the modern petro-wax?

Submitted by 1737246372 on

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I ordered this dvd from amazon over 4 months ago, and they still can't say when it will be shipped. Is anyone aware of a similar issue

Chris,

As much as some people might like to see video of everything, there's a limit to the time we can spend producing stuff for the site - and I honestly think the images do a fine job and take a fraction of the time to produce.

Martin

Submitted by Dave Hockin on

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I've caught 61 Rainbows on my local reservoir using holo Diawl Bachs, very slow or no retrieve in wind lanes.
Sometimes using a Booby on the top dropper as a reverse 'washing line'. The booby attracts the fish and they take the Diawl Bachs.

Submitted by chris dawson on

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the diagrams are handy but there are videos on youtube etc, which make tying flies for beginners alot easier. the details on how to fish the buzzers was extremely helpful tho. cheers :):)

Submitted by Jason 1737246372 on

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Has anybody ever heard of a wet fly called the old faithful and know how to tie it

Submitted by Rasmus Hansen on

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Hey Martin
I'm proud to see that you have taken my simple but effective pattern "The White" into your collection of seatrout patterns. It really is an effective fly, and I still use it as my "first choice". Lots of flyfishers has been really sceptical to this pattern, I think mainly because it is so simple and easy to tie. For rough conditions I put a lot of weight under the dubbing. A "turbo" version with some flash (for example som flashabou tube) tied as a collar works fine too. The strange thing is that the fly often works best in larger sizes and taken in very slowly. On the right day it's a real Killer, I've often experienced loads of takes when other flies didn't produce anything, stangely enough...

Thanks
Rasmus Hansen

Rob,

I have always used salt for my skins and never had problems with it. Borax might be rougher on the feathers, but I don't think so. Might there be something with the feathers from the outset? The bird molting or whatnot?

I have been very hard on some skins during the washing and drying process, and never had any problems.

The only time I have had barbs come off was during a nasty attack of some critters in my fly tying materials. They literally bit off the barbs by the root, but only on a few skins. I have since put some repellent in between my stuff, and never had the problem again.

Martin

Submitted by Jim Bauer on

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Looking for your DVD video The Trout Bum Diaries by Will Mullis and can't find it on your web site but a few months ago I did.

Submitted by Rob Creamer on

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Great article Martin, very useful information!!

Today I completed the curing of the neck and saddle of my first rooster following these directions, and they came out great except for one problem: some of the feathers on the neck lost a significant number of their barbs during the final cleaning with warm water(which I did gently). I am wondering if maybe this was due to the fact that I left them cureing in Borax for a few weeks, which is longer than recommended. I also find it curious that it only happened to the neck and not the saddle. Have you ever encountered this problem and do you know what the cause may have been? Thanks very much.

Submitted by christy langton on

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As a fly dresser and angler ,i have chopped and changed -experimented with most of the "major" brands of trout hooks the No 1 for me is the Dry FlashPoint -best I;ve ever used for tying and angling !

Submitted by Dr. Malcolm Robson on

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I'm from the U.K. Our trout are maybe not as big but they are intelligent and it takes a good fly to catch them.
I use size 12 or 14 microbarb hooks. The body I use is 2 fold, one of olive and one of grey. An olive body with a twist of copper works well. Tail of blue dun or pheasant for the nymph. Hackle of pheasant tied nymph style or blue dun (greyish) for the BWO. Thread of olive or black. Our trout love them all year round.

This is a problem all over. I've read that due to escapee fish, there's now an Alantic Salmon population that runs in rivers on the west coast of North and South America.

North Pacific Chinook salmon have started to establish themselves on both coasts of South America due to escapees as well.

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